Feature: Top W&W picks from A. Lange & Söhne, Cartier and more
From a glow-in-the dark tourbillon perpetual calendar to a crownless watch certified for spaceflight, here are our Watches & Wonders top picks from A. Lange & Söhne, Cartier, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Panerai.
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Lumen Perpetual Tourbillon, reference 720.035FE
A. Lange & Söhne has been producing its “Lumen” watches since 2010, with the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon the last model to get the luminous treatment in 2024. And now we have the Lange 1 Perpetual Tourbillon in 950 platinum, which looks as good as any of the previous Lumen offerings and even comes with a newly developed in-house calibre, the L225.1.
Visible through the open caseback, this movement is every bit as fascinating as the dial, with the usual artisanal smorgasbord of superb engravings and finishings that Lange does so admirably. Even the tourbillon, concealed on the dial side, is like no other thanks to its diamond endstone and the two components flanking it, meticulously engraved with tiny stars.
IWC Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive, reference IW328601
Besides IWC’s more traditional offerings this year is what it calls a “next-generation tool watch”. Minimalist and unconventional in equal measure, this timepiece is certified for spaceflight by IWC’s brand partner, Vast, a company developing the world’s first commercial space station. So, it’s apt that it has a futuristic appearance, boasting a ceramic case with integrated rubber strap, no crown and a dial that’s as black as space itself.
Despite all this, the movement is mechanical self-winding, with a rotating bezel system and a “rocker switch” on the left side of the case to control the functions, including a date indicator and second time zone. Water resistant to 100 metres and with a 120-hour power reserve, it’s a watch you can wear anywhere, whether you’re on terra firma, in a space station floating above the Sea of Tranquility or in the actual sea.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Inventiva Gyrotourbillon À Stratosphère, reference Q5306480
Jaeger-LeCoultre has released some exceptional watches this year, but we particularly love the Master Hybris Inventiva Gyrotourbillon À Stratosphère which, as the name suggests, is straight out of horology’s top drawer. Marking the start of a new series of Hybris watches, each of the Hybris Inventiva line showcases a single groundbreaking complication.
So, inside this 42mm platinum case is a new, patent-pending, triple-axis Gyrotourbillon. It comprises 189 components, and its three axes of rotation cover 98% of possible positions, making it one of the most precise tourbillon wristwatches ever.
The dial is decorated with guilloché and translucent blue enamel, while the highly finished Calibre 178 is visible on the reverse side. Only 20 pieces will ever be made.
Cartier Roadster, reference PUWA11972
We’re delighted that Cartier has released seven new versions of its previously discontinued, automobile-inspired Roadster—originally released in 2002. The new-generation models come in steel (pictured), gold or two-tone, available in both large and medium case sizes. With new streamlined proportions and ergonomics, it has the familiar curvy, tonneau case and an integrated conical crown with a metal cabochon.
Meanwhile, the dial features a circular striated pattern with an “appliqué” effect for added depth, plus a railroad-style minute track and Cartier’s signature Roman numerals. There’s also a headlight-inspired calendar aperture and sword-shaped hands. Each model is powered by an in-house self-winding movement: the 1847 MC for the large models and the 1899 MC for the medium versions. These replace the ETA-based movements found in the previous models.
Panerai Luminor 31 Giorni, reference PAM01631
The Luminor 31 Giorni comes with a monster 31-day power reserve, beating its previous best by 21 days. This huge reserve is thanks to the hand-wound calibre P.2031/S, boasting no less than four spring barrels—the culmination of seven years of dedicated research and development carried out by Panerai’s Laboratorio di Idee.
This incredible movement sits within a 44mm brushed Panerai Goldtech™ case and is partly visible through the skeletonised dial—giving it a futuristic look. Of course, this watch wouldn’t be complete without a power reserve indicator, positioned on the dial between 3 and 6 o’clock. There’s also a small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock and a date window at 3 o’clock. Completing this piece is a sophisticated black alligator leather strap. This impressive Panerai is a limited edition of 200 pieces.
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